A little-known playground of oil workers, golfers and retired expats lies 45 kilometres from Pattaya, Thailand’s most infamous entertainment area.
Ban Chang in Rayong province is a seemingly sleepy town with a strip of bars that can sometimes rival those in Sin City’s Soi 6 for unabashed sleaziness.
Coming from Pattaya, turn left at the first set of traffic lights in Ban Chang and after about 200 metres you will come to an area of about 25 bars, starting with The Camel pub and ending at Offshore Bar. The latter’s name is an indication of how this P4P area developed to service customers openly referred to as OFT (Oil Field Trash). The southern city of Songkhla has a similar area, known as The Dark Side, that grew from farangs mining black gold.
Exploring new bar areas always gives me a buzz. It is great to be a new face in town, just as you were all those years ago when you were dazzled by Nana’s neon and Cowboy’s dancing damsels. Ban Chang is nothing like those two areas but on three visits I had a lot of fun. It is similar to Pattaya’s Soi 6 in style and concept – short-time bars with lots of hands-on action – but the service providers are not as tattooed and scary as their Sin City sisters.
The similarities with Soi 6 are many. The action starts at about 1pm, most of the bars have upstairs short-time rooms and one grey note (700 baht for the girl, 300 for the bar) is the going rate for bumping uglies – literally so in many cases because, as in Soi 6, the quality on show is at the lower end of what the kingdom has to offer. But the girls are generally a friendly crew and, as ever, there are a few diamonds in the rough.
The bars have some inventive names, including The Where House and Cupids Stunts. As soon as you enter any of the bars, you are approached by a hostess eager to make contact, usually through a back massage. If she isn’t to your taste, just politely say “no, thank you” and she will disappear. If she does fit the bill, an 80-baht lady-drink is a contract for both parties to indulge in thorough body searches. The girls aren’t shy – one was totally naked apart from a pair of skimpy shorts as she attended to a customer at one bar. Beers are reasonably priced at 70-80 baht and there are enough ladyboys scattered around to keep those so inclined occupied for an afternoon.
The Camel is a great place to stay. This English pub has nice rooms for only 600 baht a night, including a decent English breakfast. It has real English beer and Belgian premium beers such as Hoegaarden and Leffe for only 160 baht a pint. Its farang food is just like mother used to make: the 390-baht mixed grill has so much char-grilled meat that it looks like a road accident, while its Sunday roast dinners (pork, beef or lamb) are the best I have had outside England.
Even though it captures the authentic feel of Olde England, The Camel also has short-time rooms and obliging hostesses mingling with customers. It also has some very cute waitresses dressed in school uniforms, though I don’t think they are for hire.
Ban Chang offers fun at very reasonable rates. It is the 19th hole of choice for the many golfers who play at the excellent local courses. And because this strip of bars is catering predominantly to locals or regular visitors, there are none of the scams you will find in Bangkok, Pattaya or Phuket. Without returning customers, these bars would soon die.
You are never quite sure what you will find. After finding most bars dead one Sunday afternoon, my friend and I wandered into one bar that would have had Soi 6 denizens blushing as at least four totally naked girls were dancing on the bar being cheered by a gang of raucous oil workers.
Ban Chang is one of Thailand’s best-kept secrets. Don’t tell anyone about it.
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